The Sweet Revelations of Abigail O’Brien
The remarkable series of photographs that Abigail O’Brien produced at the Oatfield Sweet Factory at Letterkenny in County
Donegal can be read on many levels. The most prosaic interpretation would focus on the documentary nature of these works,
which record the equipment and materials and processes involved in the making of traditional candies, but which also introduce us
to the men and women who perform the necessary alchemy of sweet making. Mixing and kneading and pouring and extruding and
pressing and tempering and slicing and wrapping, flow together into a sort of candy-choreography. Even outsiders can perceive
the concentration, but also the rhythmic sureness and ease with which individual gestures are carried out. What transpires here
is a kind of laying on of hands, and the workers, like the dwarfs in the film Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, have an air of
witchcraft about them. But we do not just see employees going about the practiced routines of work. We see them in repose as
well – as in ‘Breaktime’ or in ‘Time Out’, which conveys a sense of fundamental separation and weariness that seem to place the
viewer in the role of voyeur. The men and women depicted here might be actors glimpsed backstage after a performance, their
masks dropped.
In summarising this sequence under the title ‘Temperance’, O’Brien suggests the search for balance and harmony, for a middle
ground. Aristotle saw temperance as the summit between two chasms – the chasms of intemperance and insensibility. The artist
explores these extremes in the rituals and processes of the factory floor, but also reminds us as viewers that our hunger may be
bigger than our stomachs. Hence, a state of balanced moderation may be possible only after swinging into extremes (‘Good Girl
1’ and ‘Good Girl 2’) or trespassing into excess (‘Fools Gold’). It is for this reason that O’Brien’s work vacillates between the peaks
of movement and rest, of luxury and emptiness. One can also see this symbolised in the delicious, baroque folds of a sugar-mass
collapsing into smooth flat forms.
In her application to become Photographer in Residence at the Oatfield Sweet Factory, Abigail O’Brien emphasized that she
hoped to produce a work with “a relevance that will extend beyond the factory gates.” This greater relevance embraces social, psychological and aesthetic aspects. The 70 Oatfield workers constitute a community that has evolved in relative isolation for the
better part of a century. Only through interaction and cooperation can their goals be achieved, though each individual must be fully
concentrated on his own particular task, as we see in ‘Undertaking’ or ‘Flay’. In such everyday and workaday gestures, O’Brien
sees something ritualistic and even primal. In an earlier, deeply moving work entitled ‘Extreme Unction – From the Ophelia Room’,
she focused on the theme of grief through photographs taken at the ‘Dead Letter Room’ of the Dublin Central Post Office and at
the Dublin City Morgue. In ‘Martha’s Cloth – Confirmation’, she documented the weaving of cloth at the McNutt Tweed Factory in
Downings, County Donegal. The looming process became a metaphor for the threads that make up an individual life, while the
waft and weave of the cloth symbolised the reflective and the active aspects of everyday life.
Both projects became part of The Seven Sacraments, shown in Munich in 2004 and Dublin in 2005, which brought the artist her
first international attention. That series, inspired by Nicolas Poussin’s work on the same theme, took nine years to complete, and
now the artist has moved on to an exploration of The Natural Virtues, to which ‘Temperance’ contributes a new chapter. Yet both
cycles employ similar techniques and metaphors, so that one can indeed see all of O’Brien’s oeuvre to date as a gigantic work in
progress exploring the rituals and the dogmas of everyday life. Many of these relate to the preparation and consumption of food
– as in her ‘Kitchen Pieces, Confession + Communion’ from 1998. Among the most formally beautiful and enigmatic works in this
series is a group of eight still-lifes where a granite-topped kitchen cupboard becomes a household altar with fish and meat and
poultry, bread and fruit and pastry arranged in what William Butler Yeats might have termed “a fearful symmetry.”
For ‘Dream Kitchen’, O’Brien used a streamlined Siematic Kitchen display as a set, gently satirising the culinary communion
of mother and daughter. In formal as well as emotional contrast, a real kitchen provides the background for ‘Clara Baking’,
whose Vermeer-like light places the image firmly within the tradition of women as portrayed in the closed spaces of Dutch genre
painting. The extensive cluster of images and objects that make up the ‘Kitchen Pieces’ also includes five sculpted wooden bread loaves, as well as a loaf broken into 30 pieces that are cast in bronze and then plated with silver. Like ‘Thirty Slices of Bread’, which
the artist contributed to a show entitled ‘BreadMatters’ in 2007, the work alludes to the Last Supper and Judas’ betrayal of Christ.
In the background one hears the voices of young children conjugating verbs that have to do with eating and drinking: “I eat / You
eat / He eats / She eats / You eat / They have eaten”, followed by similar conjugations of taste, bite, chew, sip, savour, nibble, spit,
rub, nibble, savour, sip and eat – like a kind of gastronomic litany.
This blending of voice, object and photograph is typical for O’Brien’s multi-medial approach. Rarely are her photographs shown
autonomously but are moulded into environments and ensembles. The body of work entitled ‘Fortitude’, for example, introduces
us to a mind-boggling private collection of tanks and other military vehicles, along with “The Collector” and his family. As the first
instalment of the new series based on ‘The Natural Virtues’, the photographs were presented alongside a full-size blow-up replica
of a tank, covered with a “camouflage” pattern of cross-stitched pink raspberries. ‘Temperance’ features 26 large Lambdachrome
prints, as well as hard-candy casts of human organs, displayed on industrial trolleys. An accompanying video entitled ‘Good
Housekeeping’ rounds out the ensemble. It shows a woman washing down the factory machinery at the end of the week: the
ablutions after the excess, the middle ground between labour and repose. This multimedial, installational aspect of O’Brien’s work
sets her apart from the “stars” of the international photography scene, who aim for an entirely reduced, sober and sometimes
sobering presentation of oversized images.
O’Brien’s entire idiom effectively demonstrates how aspects of Christian ritual and belief are intertwined with everyday objects
and activities in what might be termed rituals of the commonplace. In her recasting of ‘The Last Supper’ (1995) – the first work
in the series The Seven Sacraments - quotidian female rites are celebrated above a long, white-draped banquet table set for
a single guest. In ‘How to Butterfly a Leg of Lamb’ (1999), which references Artemisia Gentileschi’s painting of ‘Judith Slaying
Holofernes’ and was also realised with the artist Mary Kelly, the visual power of the culinary demonstration itself is underscored and intensified by the elegantly folded red napkins that accompany the action. (O’Brien is fascinated by the use of the colour red
in all its shades and hues in the poetry of Emily Dickinson, where it variously symbolizes life, vitality, erotic ecstasy, emotion and
tension.) The folding of napkins and tablecloths, embroidery and sewing and needlepoint and flower-arranging number among
the “female” skills celebrated in O’Brien’s work. She has even exhibited the backs of needlepoint designs in order to show the
confusion and improvisation and clutter from which the completed harmonies derive. Such activities have prompted critics to draw
comparisons to other women artists like Judy Chicago and Rosemary Trockel or Trace Emin and Annette Messager, who have
creatively transformed such clichés of a woman’s world.
In the catalogue accompanying Abigail O’Brien’s exhibitions at Munich’s Haus der Kunst, the Kunstverein Lingen and Dublin’s
Royal Hibernian Academy in 2004 / 2005, the Jesuit art critic Friedhelm Mennekes reflected in eloquent detail about the
relationship between the ‘Seven Sacraments’ of Catholicism and the works of Abigail O’Brien. What this and other analyses
sometimes overlook, however, is the humour that literally “graces” many of her photographs and objects – unmistakable in
images like ‘Communion’ and ‘Dream Kitchen’, for example. It is also central to the installation O’Brien created in 1996 at the
Dublin branch of Habitat, where a photo series entitled ‘Man Eating Cream Bun’ was first exhibited. O’Brien’s is a humour that in
no sense diminishes the seriousness of the works in question but which ensconces them in a kind of comédie humaine. Never
has the humour been so sprightly as in the series entitled Bella, which the artist completed in 2007. In each of the 14 images that
comprise this wittily elegant series, a meringue is poised on a flourish of doily atop a long-stemmed silver dish that resembles a
stiletto-heeled shoe. As in a fashion-shoot, the coquettish ‘Glamour Puss’ flourishes her petticoats and reveals the many facets of
her sensuous but fragile self.
O’Brien’s saucy dame blanche has distinguished cousins in Andy Warhol’s delicious drawings of ice-cream sundaes, many of
which were named for pop celebrities. Indeed, from his early ‘Campbell’s Soup’ paintings to his later entrepreneurial experimentwith the “Andymat,” Warhol’s work again and again addressed the theme of eating in America. Contemporaries like Roy
Lichtenstein, Jim Dine, Robert Indiana and Wayne Thibaud made their own distinctive contributions to the theme, while Claes
Oldenburg transformed his studio on New York’s lower East Side into the “Store,” where he sold hand-painted papier-mâché cakes
and pies and ice-cream cones and joints of beef. Such works were particularly well suited to a generation determined to make
popular culture an instrument for overturning the artistic dogmas of post-war New York, but artists’ interest in food as a subject
is virtually timeless. One might cite the illusions of Dutch still-life painting, the fantasies of Giuseppe Arcimboldo and Édouard
Manet’s scandalous ‘Déjeuner sur l’herbe’ as examples of the expressive range of the subject.
In the café scenes of Toulouse-Lautrec, Van Gogh’s ‘Potato Eaters’ or Chaim Soutine’s iconic sides of beef, food likewise proved a
multi-faceted theme, but it has sometimes served as a medium, as well. Dieter Rot sculpted in chocolate, while fat was a favourite
material for Joseph Beuys and Keith Haring once drew with spaghetti. In our own time, Brazilian artist Vik Muniz has created
images with chocolate syrup, pepper, peanut butter and jelly – even with caviar. Since most of these unconventional compositions
are used as photographic “models”, they come far closer to the aesthetic of Abigail O’Brien than to that of the Pop artists. It is no
surprise, then, that the products of the Oatfield Confectionary Factory, as it was once known, have provided not only photographic
themes but also the material from which the artist has formed sculptures. These glistening “body parts”, cast from medical
models of human organs, might have been produced by the glass-craftsmen of Murano, but are in fact moulded from the molten
sugar syrup used for hard candies. (Images like ‘Synovia’ and ‘Mesentery’ explicitly echo the techniques developed in Murano for
the production of colourful pate de verre.)
In her examination of confectionary processes and pleasures, O’Brien moves into a sphere rich in legend and fantasy and wish
fulfilment: into the storied sphere of Candyland. The dream of a land of plenty, where “the trees are made of peppermint sticks,
and lemonade fills the streams” (as in the 1961 film Babes in Toyland), occurs in many variations. One of the oldest is the medieval-mythical land of Cockaigne - a word derived from the small sweet cake sold to children at street-fairs. (These are
the true antecedents to the fragrant madeleines that prompt the flow of memory in Proust’s À la recherché du temps perdu.)
The “sweets to the sweet” that Hamlet’s mother placed on the grave of Ophelia were actually small bouquets of flowers, but
the metaphor itself suggests how precious sweets were at the time, when they were reserved for the nobility and the wealthy.
By the 17th century, when sugar became plentiful in England, boiled-sugar candies like horehound drops and lemon drops and
peppermint and wintergreen became popular favourites. In Tchaikovsky’s perennial ballet, The Nutcracker Suite, Clara and
her prince find themselves with the Sugar Plum Fairy in the Land of Sweets with marzipan shepherds and Mother Ginger with
her “Plichinelles”, the Bonbons, Taffy Clowns and Court Buffoons. Even when sweets became mass-manufactured staples of
childhood, the dream of Candyland persisted. The Brothers Grimm had included it in their fairytales as a land of milk and honey
called “Schlaraffenland”, whose wonders were passed along to generations of wide-eyed listeners. In Mother Goose we find
the rhyme
Handy Spandy, Jack-a-dandy,
Loves plum cake and sugar candy.
During the Depression years in America, a popular hobo ballad described a child who dreamed of the “big rock candy mountain.”
(At the same time, an attractive young woman came to be known as “eye candy.”) More recently, Roald Dahl’s Charlie and the
Chocolate Factory lent the confectionary fantasies of childhood a modern twist, and the film version of 1971 gave us the enduring song “The Candy Man Can”. It added to a remarkable list of “sweet” songs and book titles, popular expressions and personalities
like the vivacious “Sugar” as played by Marilyn Monroe in Billy Wilder’s Some Like It Hot. It also gave us Tennessee Williams’ Hard
Candy and Terry Southern’s mildly pornographic Candy and the expression “easy as taking candy from a baby”. But the degree to
which sweet dreams have infiltrated the collective consciousness is perhaps best summed up by the expression “happy as a kid in a candy shop”. Or as Abigail O’Brien in the Oatfield Sweet Factory, where she worked over a period of several months. Because of the varying intensities of light within the working space and the speed of workers’ movements, she employed a digital camera. The
results can be appraised in the intensity and concentration of expressions often encountered here.
One immediately senses what attracted her to this project. As in so much of her work, she is recording the rhythmic, almost rituallike
work of human hands, and once more the theme of nurture is present. (The first taste to develop in an infant is that for sweet
substances, which are particularly high in life-sustaining carbohydrates.) The aesthetic dimension is often stunning in its intensity:
the voluptuous layers of cooling toffee like folds in a Renaissance drapery; the shimmering, taffeta-like shades of yellow and pink
and orange and turquoise; the gleaming cylinders of rock candy; the shiny black “loaves” of liquorice; and the knife plunging into
a red “heart.” Added to this is the “patina” of the mysterious machines pictured here and the steam-shrouded figures on cleaning
day, like Hephaestus’ dutiful helpers at the forge. These form the basis for ‘Good Housekeeping’, the accompanying video of looped
stills with Oatfield’s “Health and Safety Regulations” providing the text.
There are surreal moments here, provoked by the anomalies of protective clothing that might equally well come from a research
laboratory or an intensive-care unit or a canning plant. Workers are regularly provided with hairnets and gloves, safety shoes,
ear defenders and safety glasses – even, where appropriate, with “moustache snoods”. The surreal atmosphere is intensified by
signs that suddenly shout from the background: “Fire Exit”, “DANGER!” or “MOVING PARTS”. These read like slogans from an
industrial age when “new-fangled” machines both lightened work and often made it more dangerous. It also echoes a time when
family businesses like Oatfield consciously acted in loco parentis. Those insinuated levels of interpretation help to account for
the richness of the environment Abigail O’Brien evokes here, where the pragmatic and the sensual interact in a sprightly play of
colours and textures. The sensuous, fleshy folds of ‘Wrinkle 1’ and ‘Saponaceous’ and ‘Adipose’, furthermore, exist for only a few
short minutes before the poured material falls in upon itself. This transitory moment is turned to delectable “eye candy” in the
painterly photographs of Abigail O’Brien.
David Galloway